California Apparel News

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After decades of operating in a manner comparable to a secret society, the fashion industry has finally begun to evolve. Rather than employing gatekeeping tactics, veteran and emerging designers, brands, manufacturers and contributors across the supply chain now rely on increased discussions regarding best practices and a willingness to share information that will benefit the entire business on a global scale.

It isn’t a perfect system but the apparel-business shift toward becoming more open, and responsive to sustainable and consumer demands, has illustrated how the apparel industry is stronger when businesses work together. The noticeable shift in a collaborative direction can be attributed to the evolution of apparel as an industry whose experts recognize that doing the work to promote the greater good resonates with customers. These insiders rely on certifications that prove their businesses remain true to sustainable commitments through transparent operations, which rely on traceability within the supply chain. Employing audits to attain these certifications keeps brands and their supply-chain partners honest through providing insight into their best practices and, at times, identifying areas where they can improve.

These certifying organizations help brands and designers commit to cleaning up the apparel industry and aligning fashion with ethical sourcing. Obtaining certification from a reputable committee creates transparent supply chains, which show the journey of a garment that is traceable from farm to retail floor. It also builds greater consumer trust that relies on assurances of ecologically sound, socially beneficial products and goods that can help businesses avoid the negative impacts of international trade conflicts.

California Apparel News asked experts in apparel traceability: What certifications are crucial to supporting traceability commitments in the apparel industry and why do you value the standards of their certifying organizations?

Daren Abney

Executive Director

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol

 The apparel industry is embarking on a journey toward greater responsibility as consumers are increasingly engaged, actively seeking brands that have a proven record. Traceability empowers brands to demonstrate their commitment to positive change—moving beyond intentions to highlight specific taken steps. This allows consumers to recognize brands that align with their values, driving further progress.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol’s traceability solution (PCMS) creates a transparency map that provides the authenticated origin of U.S. Cotton and Protocol Cotton, along with the names and locations of the Trust Protocol mill and manufacturer members that were involved in the production process, into the finished products that are shipped to the brand or retailer. As a result, brands and retailers achieve visibility of each stage of production, as well as validation of the origin of the cotton fiber tracked into their products.

    Kerry Bannigan

    Managing Director, PVBLIC Foundation

    Co-Founder, United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network

 Certifications such as Fair Trade, GOTS, SA8000 and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 play an important role in advancing traceability in the apparel industry by setting baseline protections for workers’ rights, fair wages and safe working conditions. While these frameworks create a level of accountability, they are not guarantees as no certification alone can eliminate the risks of unethical supply-chain practices.

The strength of certifying organizations lies in their independent standards and ability to push for systemic reform, but they must be complemented by corporate responsibility and worker-led initiatives. Valuing these certifications means recognizing both their strengths and limitations whilst ensuring they are tools for progress. True traceability is not just about labels; it requires rigorous enforcement, continuous monitoring and a commitment to centering workers’ rights.

Laura Beachy

Vice President of Global Marketing and Communications

Thermore

 At Thermore, certifications are an important aspect of our sustainability efforts. Our company is certified by GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX Standard 100, and we recognize the importance of certifications in guaranteeing responsible sourcing, safe materials and ethical production processes.

The GRS certification ensures the use of recycled materials while maintaining strict environmental and social standards. The OEKO-TEX Standard 100 guarantees that our thermal insulation is free from harmful substances, reinforcing consumer trust in our products.

In today’s fashion and sport industries, traceability is very important. Certifications like GRS and OEKO-TEX reflect our commitment to transparency, ethical practices and environmental responsibility. At Thermore, we believe that sustainability starts with accountability, and these certifications are a key part of our mission.

    Meredith Boyd

    Chief Product Officer

    UNIFI, makers of REPREVE

 Certifications are crucial to supporting traceability commitments in the apparel industry because they build trust, validate sustainability claims and provide transparency across the supply chain. External certifications ensure that third-party organizations can verify internal sustainability commitments, while internal traceability measures add additional layers of trust and accountability.

REPREVE empowers brands to meet their sustainability goals with verified traceability, driving consumer confidence and peace of mind. As the only eco-performance fiber with U-TRUST product verification, REPREVE ensures transparency and traceability at every stage. U-Trust is powered by our proprietary FiberPrint tracer technology, which is embedded into every strand of yarn, allowing us to know the product’s recycled feedstock origins.

In addition to U-TRUST verification, REPREVE is certified by industry-leading standards, including OEKO-TEX, GRS, Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) and OceanCycle, and is present within the Higg Material Standards Index (MSI). These rigorous certifications reflect our commitment to maintaining the highest sustainability and traceability standards, making REPREVE the premier eco-performance fiber for brands and consumers alike.

Marco Bruno

Head of ESG Compliance & Health and Safety

Oerlikon Luxury

 At Oerlikon Riri and Oerlikon Fineparts, the two complementary brands of the Oerlikon Luxury business sector, each certification serves distinct strategic objectives, reflecting the unique characteristics of our company, products, processes and facilities. Effective traceability involves mapping the journey of raw materials into finished products. For example, all the polyester we use is GRS certified, sourced exclusively through suppliers recognized by international industry standards, and made entirely from 100 percent post-consumer recycled material. However, our product range extends far beyond polyester, encompassing a variety of organic, recycled and natural materials, as well as metals and precious stones, and achieving traceability throughout our extensive product range requires more than a single certification. That’s why we rely on a combination of diverse certifications, including Oeko-Tex for zippers and buttons, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for organic cotton, and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) certification for ethical extraction and processing of metals and precious stones.

Since 2018, we have also adhered to the ‘Policy on Minerals from Conflict Zones,’ now aligned with Oerlikon’s guidelines, to avoid minerals that may finance conflicts. Beyond product-specific certifications, our compliance with ISO 9001, 14001 and 45001 standards in all the Oerlikon Riri plants extends our transparency beyond sustainability to include broader commitments to environmental management, quality, health, and safety. Our dedicated approach is exemplified in our ‘Commitment to Sustainability,’ an annual document where we transparently present our achievements in environmental, economic and social domains. This resource offers stakeholders a clear and honest view into our sourcing policies, material traceability and ongoing progress toward our sustainability goals.

    Katrina Caspelich

    Chief Marketing Officer

    Remake

 Certifications are a vital tool for ensuring brands are truly committed to transparency and sustainability. But let’s be clear: not all certifications are created equal. Some are simply buzzwords that can mislead consumers and contribute to greenwashing. One certification that stands out as truly reliable is OEKO-TEX. This certification focuses on ensuring textiles are safe from harmful chemicals, which is critical in an industry that often relies on toxic dyes and finishes. OEKO-TEX ensures that products certified under it meet strict human and environmental safety standards. Most importantly, OEKO-TEX updates its criteria annually to stay ahead of scientific advancements and regulations. Brands must retest their products to receive the updated certification, ensuring the standard remains dynamic, relevant and reliable for both brands and consumers.

Paola Corna

Chief Financial Officer, Sustainability and Human Resources Manager

ACM

 Our approach to certifications is shaped by diverse factors. Some are determined by direct customer and market demands. Others reflect our own voluntary initiatives that support strategic commercial goals and strengthen our commitment to traceability, ensuring precise batch monitoring and full compliance throughout the entire supply chain. Many companies meet certification requirements, but ACM goes further, using these standards as opportunities to set higher benchmarks and drive continuous improvement toward traceability and sustainability.

Achieving the ISO 14001 certification in 2024 marked a significant milestone for ACM. This accomplishment showcases decades of forward-thinking practices, including our water recirculation system established in 1992 and our dedication to renewable energy. We have also integrated low-impact, traceable recycled materials, all certified by the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), throughout our production chain. Additionally, our updated Ethical Code, while not a third-party certification, embodies our principles of transparency, respect for people and responsibility toward the environment, establishing clear guidelines for responsible conduct in every professional relationship. At ACM, certifications align seamlessly with our Ethical Code, demonstrating our unwavering dedication to transparency, responsible practices and setting new standards for the industry.

    Claudia de Witte

    Textiles Sustainability Leader

    Eastman

 Certifications are essential for ensuring traceability and sustainability in the apparel industry, each serving a distinct role in verifying responsible sourcing, ethical production, and circularity

As a cellulosic-fibers manufacturer, FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) is fundamental for Eastman Naia, guaranteeing that the wood pulp used in our fibers comes from responsibly managed forests. This certification supports biodiversity, ethical forestry practices and supply-chain transparency.

Beyond FSC, securing the GRS was a major achievement for Eastman Naia, reinforcing our commitment to circularity. We collaborated closely with Textile Exchange to obtain GRS certification, ensuring that our recycling processes meet the highest industry standards. A significant milestone came in June 2023, when Textile Exchange expanded its Alternative Volume Reconciliation (VR2) policy to include gasification, a key component of Eastman’s carbon renewal technology.

This update was crucial, allowing our molecular recycling technology to be audited under GRS. By breaking waste down into molecular building blocks, we create high-quality recycled materials, addressing textile-waste challenges. These two certifications are examples of how third-party standards help manufacturers and brands drive industry transformation and mainstream circularity. By ensuring transparency and accountability, certifications in general support the shift toward more responsible and sustainable textile production.

Dr. Cindy J. Lin 

Chief Executive Officer

Hey Social Good, and Former U.S. EPA Scientist and Policymaker

 Certifications and third-party vetting are now crucial parts of the apparel industry. With both consumers and apparel brands becoming more educated on the impact of fashion on people and the planet, the desire for verified information is extremely high. Furthermore, government policies in the European Union, Canada and critical fashion economies in the U.S. (e.g., California, New York, Washington and Oregon) are increasingly requiring better reporting and transparency that’s good for impact and profit.

In such cases, not only should companies seek out certifications that reflect the traceability of their textiles, but they will need to look for certifications or verifications of a business’ supply chain decisions and activities. Specific examples of textile traceability might include OEKO-TEX, GOTS, BLUESIGN, Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). Comprehensive review or vetting of a business’ overall practices from sourcing to transportation to retail may include B-Corp Certification, the social-governance focused Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and HSG’s Sustainability & Social Good Assessment (adopted at all Informa Markets fashion trade shows), which uses the United Nation’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals as a framework to evaluate apparel and textile businesses’ sustainable practices.

The case for certifications is no longer just about what’s good for environmental, social and governance impact, but now critically about establishing business resilience and continued profitability. Buyers at all levels are seeking out robust companies that are available for the long term because finding a new vendor, manufacturer or apparel brand can be time-consuming and costly. Working with or buying from independently vetted apparel businesses and their suppliers means having the ability to create long-standing stability in the market and credibility with consumers.

    Steve McCullough

    Event Director

    Functional Fabric Fair

 Having worked with hundreds of brands over the years, I’ve seen firsthand how certifications like GOTS, Oeko-Tex and Bluesign have transformed from nice-to-haves to absolute necessities. These aren’t just logos on a website, they are the backbone of meaningful traceability with their levels of standards and verifications that cannot be replicated by internal brand claims.

The most impactful certifications like Responsible Wool Standard document the entire journey from raw material to finished product, maintain rigorous verification protocols and continually evolve their standards as new challenges emerge. These systems transform vague sustainability promises into verifiable facts.

We’re highlighting “Certifications: Which Ones Matter?” at our 2025 Functional Fabric Fair events because the landscape has become overwhelming. Companies are suffering from certification fatigue, unsure where to invest their limited resources. Every single supplier you’ll see at Functional Fabric Fair has been thoroughly vetted to ensure they are sustainability certified. This careful and curated selection process isn’t an afterthought, it’s built into everything we do from education to providing sourcing opportunities. Certifications provide the transparency foundation our industry desperately needs.

Philippe Mignot

Project Manager

NextPrinting

 At NextPrinting, our mission is to minimize the environmental impact of garment production through advanced digital textile printing. We use certifications as a compass to guide the selection of fabrics and fibers that meet the highest standards of sustainability and traceability, ensuring a certified standard from raw material to finished product. Our approach goes beyond printing, maintaining sustainability standards throughout the entire production chain. We start by selecting certified yarns and weaves with a low environmental impact, and prioritizing globally recognized certifications such as GOTS, GRS and FSC.

Each certification addresses specific characteristics of products, whether organic, recycled or sourced from responsibly managed forests, offering a comprehensive approach within the complex landscape of fabrics, fibers and materials. By reducing water, energy and chemical consumption compared to traditional methods, we demonstrate that innovation and responsibility can work together. For us, traceability means not only monitoring materials but also providing brands and consumers with a transparent and credible view of every step in the production journey. As the fashion industry evolves, we believe certification standards must remain adaptable and dynamic, ready to guide, regulate and inspire meaningful change.

    Ebru Ozkucuk Guler

    Chief Sustainability Officer

    RE&UP

 Certifications are the backbone of trust and transparency in the apparel industry. As chief sustainability officer at RE&UP, I see firsthand how essential they are in ensuring traceability, verifying recycled content and building a truly circular system.

For a company like ours, certifications like GRS and RCS are crucial, providing third-party validation that our recycled fibers meet the highest industry standards. OEKO-TEX and Bluesign address chemical safety and responsible processing—both vital for consumer trust and environmental responsibility.

What sets these standards apart is not just the rigorous criteria but the credibility of the certifying bodies. Organizations like Textile Exchange, OEKO-TEX and Bluesign push the industry forward, setting benchmarks that hold brands, manufacturers and recyclers accountable.

At RE&UP, we value these certifications because they aren’t just checkboxes—they validate our commitment to real, measurable impact. They support compliance with upcoming EU regulations, help brands meet sustainability goals and, most importantly, give consumers confidence that the materials they wear are truly part of a circular future.

Traceability isn’t just a requirement; it’s the foundation for a better, more-responsible textile industry.

Cheryl Smyre

Vice President, Advanced Materials

Parkdale Mills

 Brands and retailers seek full transparency and trusted traceability. Without verified and traceable mechanisms, some certifications become meaningless.

Industry alignment does not exist today, but it is necessary. Significant effort is being made to evaluate and consolidate certifications to achieve a more-efficient, cost-effective and trusted process in the global supply chain.

An example of gold-standard traceability is the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, designed to provide supply-chain transparency and quantifiable sustainability metrics for U.S. cotton. Brands and retailers can rely on the structure established by USCTP and confidently participate in the program. Other existing cotton certifications do not provide verifiable data and, therefore, cause great brand risk and exposure.

Regarding our CICLO technology, we certainly understand the industry landscape and therefore prioritized the development of a proprietary tracer—ensuring verification at all supply-chain stages.

We are committed to innovation, full transparency and traceability. The industry must support reliable programs that achieve these pillars as we move into the next generation of textiles.

    Danielle Statham

    Founder

    FibreTrace

 Certifications play an important role in establishing sustainability benchmarks, but they have significant limitations when it comes to true traceability and accountability. Many certifications rely on paper-based tracking or self-reported data, which can be manipulated, misinterpreted or fail to provide full supply-chain visibility. They also do not offer real-time verification, nor do they prevent fiber substitution further down the supply chain.

This is where FibreTrace goes beyond certification by providing physical and digital traceability at the fiber level. Our patented luminescent pigment technology embeds a tamper-proof marker into fibers at the raw-material stage, enabling real-time authentication at every stage of the supply chain. This ensures that brands are not just meeting certification requirements but can actively prove the origin, sustainability and integrity of their fibers throughout production.

As regulations like the EU Digital Product Passport take effect, brands that rely solely on certifications risk falling behind. True accountability requires continuous verification. By combining certified processes with FibreTrace’s real-time tracking technology, the apparel industry can move beyond claims to measurable, provable transparency.

Jimmy Summers

Vice President of Environment, Health and Safety, and Chief Sustainability Officer

Cone Denim

 Cone Denim relies on a portfolio approach to certified sustainable fibers. For fiber-level certifications, two key programs are the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and Better Cotton. As a member of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, we have the opportunity to support a system that provides quantifiable and verifiable improvements at the cotton farm. Better Cotton drives progress in the sustainability of farmed cotton and the well-being of growers. For end-to-end traceability of recycled and organic fibers, all of our mills are RCS and OCS certified, and we are members of Textile Exchange.

All of these certifications and their related organizations are doing important work to give both credibility and verifiability to Cone Denim fabrics as we work to meet our sustainable fiber uptake target of 100 percent by 2030.

    Andrea Venier

    Managing Director

    Officina39

 The landscape of regulations and certifications is evolving rapidly, and, while traceability is becoming more important, the complexity of standards can sometimes create confusion. Today, the industry is flooded with multiple certifications, many of which are not fully understood by end consumers. We believe the solution lies in simplification and unification. Imagine a scenario where the industry follows a clear, standardized guideline—something akin to an ISO Standard for safer chemicals. This would not only make compliance easier but also offer 100 percent transparency to consumers, empowering them to make informed choices. Regulations have undoubtedly helped us move toward safer, more-reliable products, but we need to ensure our communication is just as clear. Our hope is to contribute to a more unified approach that demystifies certifications and strengthens trust across the value chain.

Eloise Vivolo

Chief Operations Manager

Vivolo

 The topic of certifications is always evolving; today’s industry demands a dynamic and responsive approach to changes and advancements in regulations and processes. This is why Vivolo consistently stays up to date with certifications. Alongside our long list of third-party acknowledgments, we are proud to add the OEKO-TEX Leather Standard to our credentials.

It is challenging to single out one certification as more important than the others. The relevance of each depends on the times, the objectives, and the partners we collaborate with. What truly matters is that these certifications, through varying standards, affirm that our company operates with transparency and integrity. This is the foundation we focus on and where we continue to invest. While certification names and labels may change, our priority remains demonstrating that our processes and materials align with principles of environmental and social responsibility, and good governance.

To reinforce this commitment, we are currently preparing our first sustainability report. This report will be an opportunity to reflect on the objectives Vivolo has achieved and outline the goals we aim to reach in the coming months and years. Certifications provide an objective measure of our progress, but they represent only a small, visible part of a much larger commitment.

    Huw Williams

    Vice President, Innovation and Market Development

    The LYCRA Company

 There are many certifications that trace textile products throughout the distribution chain—which ones are crucial depends mainly on the products a particular company buys or sells. At The LYCRA Company, as we develop bio-derived LYCRA fiber, we have secured USDA Bio-Preferred certification that validates our fiber’s bio-based content through carbon 14 testing, providing substantiation for bio-based claims. In addition, ISCC Plus certification can help track and trace bio-based products from raw-material producers all the way through to brands and retailers. For recycled products, having certifications such as GRS or RCS are essential to transacting in that space.

Customers rely on these certifications to ensure they are in fact receiving recycled products and, in the case of GRS, suppliers must also meet strict social, labor, chemical and environmental standards. Finally, certifications such as the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX and Material Health certificates from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute help ensure product safety and transparency by confirming product ingredients do not include banned substances. Essentially, all of these certifications help build trust and provide verification which are so important in today’s market as brand owners look to ensure any claims are fully substantiated.

Sherry Wood

Director of Merchandising and Design

Laguna Fabrics

 Laguna Fabrics has important certifications and partners with the highest sustainable preferred yarn suppliers that are crucial for supporting traceability commitments in the apparel industry. These certifications and fibers ensure our brands about transparency, ethical sourcing and environmental responsibility throughout the supply chain.

Laguna has invested in GOTS, which ensures the organic status of the textiles from raw-material sourcing to responsible manufacturing and labeling. It covers ecological and social criteria, making it one of the most recognized sustainability standards in the fashion industry. GOTS certification is rigorous, requiring independent third-party audits to verify compliance, ensuring credibility in organic textile claims. Lenzing fibers such TENCEL Lyocell and TENCEL Modal are regenerated cellulosic fibers known for their natural comfort and environmentally responsible closed-loop production process. Their sustainable production means providing preferably closed cycles in the pulp and fiber production for chemicals, water and energy that are all traceable.

Laguna also has partnership with Textile Exchange, which is a non-profit organization driving action on climate change across the fashion and textile industry, in addition to Higg Index, which measures the environmental and social impact of apparel production, helps us take responsibility for our entire impact, from materials to products, from carbon emissions to working conditions. Laguna has made these commitments to ensure our materials are responsibly made in the U.S., and meet the environmental and ethical standards for a greener future.

*Responses have been condensed.