Ocean's Eleven: Casino Couture
The movie: “Ocean’s Eleven”
The costume designer: Jeffrey Kurland, whose credits include several Julia Roberts movies (“Erin Brockovich,” “America’s Sweethearts”—Roberts’ wardrobe only) and numerous Woody Allen movies, including “Bullets Over Broadway,” “Crimes and Misdemeanors” and “Hannah and Her Sisters.”
What you won’t see: A replay of the 1960 Frank Sinatra/Dean Martin/Sammy Davis Jr. flick memorable for the group’s embrace of the skinny-tie-and-suit look, a certifiable men’s fashion moment. Kurland prefers a character-driven approach to design—the Rat Pack was merely dressing as themselves, he notes—and one that doesn’t announce “2001.” “Ten years from now, I don’t want the curse of having the movie look dated. I wanted characters who are stylish, not a stylish movie,” he explains.
The look: Not a fashion revelation, but an amalgam of styles as diverse as the 11 male thieves and con artists—cool, nerdy, suave, etc.—who join Danny Ocean (George Clooney) on a contemporary Las Vegas heist. Standouts are the hysterically tacky silk brocade robes and matching swim trunks that look lifted from a Versace ad, worn by over-the-hill Vegas moneyman Reuben Tishkoff (Elliott Gould). Rusty Ryan (Brad Pitt) is the slick, continental gambler in shaped suits, shirts with open French cuffs and everything, including ties, made of iridescent fabrics. Then there’s the magnificently over-indulged fashion statement of Terry Benedict (Andy Garcia), the richer-than-God casino owner. He’s expensive, he’s impeccable, but gauche in his own way. His tux is built like a Western jacket with a kimono front, his vests are made of antique obi fabrics, and his cream cashmere overcoat is lined in even more cashmere.
The Clooney factor: Kurland knows how to make you root for the crook—dress him in time-honored classics, perfectly tailored with no gimmicks, evoking Cary Grant in “To Catch a Thief.” Clooney probably has as many scenes in reliably chic peak-lapel tuxedos (both single- and double-breasted, midnight blue and black) as James Bond, and, like Bond, you won’t see him lower himself to wear a T-shirt or sweats. Note that his tuxedo shirts are standard flat collars with also-standard black bow ties.
Trivia: Julia Roberts is an elegant fashion vision in every scene, particularly in her gold beaded halter dress with gold leather trench coat. Her clothes hold their own up against dazzling diamond jewelry from Tiffany & Co., including starburst drop earrings and a diamond necklace with blue sapphire briolettes. Like clothing, even jewelry needs to be tailored to fit. The necklace was shortened to touch the base of Roberts’ throat.
Sources: Kurland designed all the costumes, including Roberts’ gold leather pagoda-shaped evening bag. Everything was made at Los Angeles costume houses, except for men’s shirts and ties, which were made at Anto Distinctive Shirt Makers in Beverly Hills, Calif.
Quoted: You don’t see any reigning status symbol accessories or clothing labels onscreen—shoes, bags, sunglasses included—and that’s how Kurland wanted it. “You want a nice, sexy, comfortable high-heeled shoe, not the 2001 version of Manolo Blahnik,” he says. “To put in product reference as far as clothing is concerned breaks people away. You don’t want that. It just interferes with the telling of the story.” —Betty Goodwin
