Educators Shaping Fashion's Future Industry

Signs of a slowing economy have become apparent throughout the Los Angeles apparel industry, from textile suppliers to manufacturers and retailers. But a slowdown in apparel business could spur enrollment at local fashion schools and universities, as both new and returning students seek to hone their fashion and merchandising skills. California Apparel News manufacturing editor Claudia Figueroa recently spoke with a few representatives from local design schools and universities to see how they are preparing their students to enter an uncertain economy.

Cynthia Morley-Mower Interim Dean, Service Careers Los Angeles Trade-Technical College (LATT) Founded: 1925 Location: Los Angeles Enrollment: 1,500 fashion students Alumni: Carole Little, Carole Little Inc.; Dorothy Schoelen, Platinum; Sue Wong, Sue Wong Design; Victor Gamez, Betty Page; Mia Garcia, Jonathan Martin; Susan Yim, Mo & Su; Martin Anguiano, Prototype; David Contreras, Hawkman Ind.; Lorraine Sabatini, Second Generation; Angela Wong, ABS Clothing; Robin Piccone, designer; Janice Pretzlav, Judy Knapp

Has enrollment increased this year?

Our fashion design enrollment has remained steady, with increases being seen in our evening/Saturday program. We have also seen an increase in enrollment in our fashion merchandising classes as many of our former design graduates return to take these important classes. In addition, enrollment in our computer classes has increased to the point that we have split our lab into two labs to be able to accommodate more students.

The apparel job market today is much tighter than it was five years ago. How are you preparing students who are entering the workforce at a time when the economy is contracting?

We offer a comprehensive program in design skills—sewing, pattern making, draping, grading, etc.—which focuses on the practical aspects of design, not so much just the “theory” part. Students who master these skills work mainly in the pattern making areas. We also emphasize a wide variety of different pattern techniques so they can work in swimwear, missy and junior.

We also offer a comprehensive program in merchandising: various business-oriented, up-to-date classes, which attract design majors. The program consists of classes in entrepreneurial fashion, international business, standard retail, global retail and product development, plus we offer one-year certificates in retail management and fashion promotion.

Apparel technology has been our biggest boost for enrollment. We’ve expanded our course offerings in this area to include a variety of software programs [such as Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech and AIMS]. We have added new computers to expand the number of classes, as well as developed more classes in this area, plus one-year certificates. Enrollment is packed now because people from the industry are coming back to school to upgrade their skills and our day students take them so they can become more competitive in the job market.

The apparel-production certificate program covers the production side of the business. We offer several classes in production systems, garment-costing, factory layout, manufacturing, human resources and finances. We offer this program to students who wish to go into this side of the business. Many have worked at a small manufacturer and find that they need a more comprehensive understanding of manufacturing.

Toni HohbergPresident, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) Founded: 1969 Locations: Los Angeles; San Francisco; San Diego; Costa Mesa, Calif.Enrollment: 4,000, all campuses Alumni: Randolph Duke, Marina Spadafora, Kevan Hall, Daniel France, Tom Mark, Karen Kane, David Cardona, Estevan Ramos, Magda Berliner and Alan Del Rosario

The apparel job market today is much tighter than it was five years ago. How are you preparing students who are entering the workforce at a time when the economy is contracting?

The labor market has declined with the offshore movement [of manufacturing]. However, we find corporate demands expanding, specifically in the areas of design, management, product development & sales. As an accredited college we continually sharpen our program to meet industries’ changes and demands. Our goal is to equip students with the education necessary to join global communities as skilled professionals, adept in creative and practical thought and current in technology. We also emphasize written and oral communication skills.

In addition to preparing them for every aspect of creating a garment/collection, from concept to pattern making to costing to finished product, we recognize that most designers are product and brand developers. This requires teamwork skills, understanding trends, knowing the marketplace and understanding the consumer.

How beneficial is FIDM’s international exchange program?

On all fronts, a very educational benefit for participantshellip;whether we have students attending a foreign college in such countries as Hong Kong, Italy, France and Great Britain or they have sent us their students. Beyond their quality class experiences, just being exposed to another culture increases knowledge and prepares them to take their place in the global world of commerce.

Sabrina KayPresident, California Design College (CDC) Founded: 1991 Location: Los Angeles Enrollment:N/A Alumni: Noricel Fulay, St. John Knits; Ariel Acuna, Max Studio; Edward Yuen, Jonathan Martin Hype; Kathlene Soloman, Ocean Pacific; Sheril Alexander, Maui & Sons; Laurie Castillo, Swat-Fame; Michelle Weisse Jimenez, City Girl; Ana Montes, Sky David Park; Jennifer Yeo, JNCO

Has enrollment increased over the past year?

California Design College’s main focus has never been on increasing enrollment.Our goal is to be the best college of fashion design, not the largest. The increase in our enrollment has come from our focus on quality and technological advancement.

The apparel job market today is much tighter than it was five years ago. How are you preparing students who are entering the workforce at a time when the economy is contracting?

The CDC job placement department works with the industry on a daily basis to find the right opportunity for each of our graduates.This individualized approach to job placement, combined with a superior technological education, gives our students an advantage in any kind of economy. The job placement department works with students individually on their resume preparation, interview techniques and portfolio development as well as setting up interview appointments.

What are some of the most important skills to know as a fashion designer in today’s market?

Designers throughout history have reflected the era in which they live. Today, we are in the Information Age, where the emphasis is on technology. CDC’s mission is to educate our students to be leaders in fashion technology. Our students receive some of the most advanced technology training available as well as the ability to communicate as a leader. These skills are making our students the designers of the 21st century.

Is fashion education perceived artistically or is it business-oriented at your school?

The connection between art and fashion is undeniable and can be seen in virtually every design that is produced. Our students understand this. CDC students also understand that there is an equally important connection between fashion and business. It is therefore impossible to separate fashion from its art and business aspects. Fashion, particularly today, must be seen for both its form and its substance. However, CDC’s curriculum is equipped to prepare the students without artistic talent to enter the industry as computer pattern makers, computer graders or manufacturers.

Samuel Chen-Tsung Hoi President,Otis College of Art and Design Founded: 1918Location: Los AngelesEnrollment: 900 BFA/MFA students (160 are in the BFA Fashion Design program) Alumni: Rod Beatty, La Blanca; Farah Ebrahimi, DKNY Women’s; Ryan Guinn, DKNY Men’s; Steve McSween, Gap Men’s; Dat Tran, Geoffrey Beene; Dreanna Bane, Lucky Brand; George Gottl, Mandarin Duck

Has enrollment increased over the past year?

Otis has been breaking its own enrollment records five years in a row now. The tiptop status of our Fashion Design program and the many national and international awards our fashion students have won definitely contribute to this continuous rise.Otis is committed to a fashion department of an intimate scale that allows intensive faculty-student interaction and team teaching. This year, we have found it necessary to cap enrollment in Fashion Design. The department is very selective.

Are today’s fashion students hesitant about entering the business due to the competitive nature of the market?

There are probably some students who do not choose Fashion Design as a major because of the competitiveness in the workplace.Students in our department, however, are very determined and are not afraid of competition. As part of an Otis education, we emphasize peer support and competition with one’s own high standards.

What are some of the most important characteristics and skills to develop as a fashion designer in today’s market?

Generally, designers today are responsible for much more than pure design. A fashion designer’s job often means an executive position within a manufacturing company. Therefore, designers need to be good and critical thinkers who can communicate their ideas. They should have leadership qualities and be able to build and manage a team. Ability to manage time and meet deadlines is also essential. The Liberal Arts and Sciences classes that Otis Fashion Design students have to take help develop these important skills and characteristics and give them a competitive advantage in employment. Many of our alumni are now head designers or senior fashion managers.

Is fashion education perceived artistically or is it business-oriented at your school?

We like to think that all our fashion graduates are trained to create art through design, no matter where they go. That said, Otis’ Fashion Design [program] has a very practical market perspective. Students are taught to negotiate successfully personal expression and creation for the marketplace. Many graduates are on design teams at large corporations such as Nike, St. John Knits, Guess?, and BCBG. Some alumni with a more independent spirit choose to open their own couture studios/specialty stores. A good example is Eduardo Lucero here in L.A.

Mary Ann Gale, Fashion Design department chair Linda Barnes Tucker, Fashion Merchandising department chairBrooks CollegeFounded: 1970Location: Long Beach, Calif.Enrollment: 227 fashion design students; 179 fashion merchandising Alumni: Byron Lars, Byron Lars Designs; Cornell Collins, Cornell Designs; Sally Biggerstaff, Volcom; Andrea Vincent, AKA LA; Terry Leon Lee, Lilly’s of Beverly Hills

Has enrollment increased over the past year?

MAG: Yes, interest in fashion design continues to grow. The entertainment industry has had a possible effect on this. The glamour attracts their attention.

LBT: Enrollment has been on a steady decline in fashion merchandising at Brooks College. I attribute the decline to the highly competitive nature of the fashion merchandising programs that exist in Southern California. The perception is that anyone can get a job in fashion retail. That part is true. But if you want a career in fashion merchandising, you need more that just on-the-job training. I find that graduates advance faster with a degree than those who do not have a specialized fashion education. The advantage that Brooks College has to offer is a highly specialized education with the focus on fashion. An English class at Brooks won’t be just generic English—the students will be researching a fashion designer or analyzing how character is created by costume.

The apparel job market today is much tighter than it was five years ago. How are you preparing students who are entering the workforce at a time when the economy is contracting?

MAG: We prepare them for as many aspects of the industry as possible so that they have a complete portfolio of job skills. We don’t concentrate on any specific area of design but cover everything from assistant design to pattern making to CAD to fabric design.

LBT: Brooks has always done an outstanding job of preparing its students. The job-placement rate can attest to that. In merchandising, we prepare them not only for retail careers, but also working as a merchandiser in manufacturing and wholesale. The newest additions to the curriculum include international marketing and e-commerce.

MAG: Technology skills such as CAD operation, pattern making, and knowing their market are imperative. Creativity is a given.

LBT: Having computer skills is the “door opener” for merchandisers. If they know Word and Excel, they can learn the “company’s way of doing business.” Knowing fashion history helps them be more accurate at predicting trends. But the most important skill we focus on is people skills and teamwork. There is virtually no job arena where you won’t be working with other people. It’s absolutely necessary to know how to be a team player in order to achieve any kind of success.