Levi's Dockers for Women on the Rise

For the past decade, Levi Strauss & Co., the San Francisco-based denim giant and maker of Dockers, has struggled to remain an essential part of American culture. But a tightening economy led the company to shutter its contemporary missy division, Slates by Janet Howard, earlier this year.

But now the company is readjusting its focus on key seasonal items and gearing up to get back into the game with its revamped Dockers for Women brand under the direction of Dockers for Women vice president of merchandising Tracy King and creative director/designer Janet Howard.

The fashion-forward designer’s mission is to recast the casual sports line with a fashion focus. For Fall 2001, the collection offers skirts, flat-front khakis and button-tab pants. Tops include a saddle-stitch shirt, cable sweater and French-cuff shirt. Retail price points range from $32 for a sleeveless turtleneck to $299 for a Wooster jacket.

Howard got her start in fashion after she left law school to launch her own line of novelty T-shirts. Later, she went on to gain notoriety among retailers with her own contemporary women’s collection, which landed her the New York-based Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Best New Designer award in 1997. Howard served as design director for Bisou Bisou before joining Levi Strauss and Co. to create Slates by Janet Howard.

King was part of the Dockers brand team for over 10 years before taking on her current position, which she has held for the past three years. She previously served as a national sales manager for Dockers for Women.

Both Howard and King have serious roles to play in the development of Dockers for Women. California Apparel News manufacturing editor Claudia Figueroa recently caught up with the duo to find out how the two envision the future of their brand and its role within the company.

Why did Levi Strauss & Co. decide to close the Slates Janet Howard line?

King: Despite the fact that the Slates Janet Howard line welcomed a strong start, we decided to redirect our resources, talent and expertise toward the Dockers for Women line. By doing so, we’re able to concentrate our efforts and brand equity on a line that people are familiar with already and expand that collection to offer our female customer everything she’d need in her closet—from weekendwear to everyday wear to casual businesswear.

With this change, will consumers see Slates influences in the Dockers for Women collections?

Howard: Absolutely. We’re revitalizing the Dockers for Women line, including the petites and plus-size lines, and entering into the dressier side of casual—which was the foundation of the Slates brand.Essentially, we’re taking all the good things we had in Slates over to the Dockers brand—where we’ve already established such great momentum. Consumers will see Slates influences in Dockers for Women as early as Fall 2001, with expanded stretch and blended offerings.

How will this change the look of Dockers for Women?

King: The transition means Janet Howard will play a huge role in the Dockers for Women lines and her design inspiration will infuse the femininity we saw in her Slates collections. While khakis are an important part of the overall Dockers business, Janet will incorporate more playful, feminine product offerings than we’ve seen in Dockers’ past.Keep your eye out for expanded stretch offerings, the injection of fabulous colors for both tops and bottoms, as well as alternative lengths and blended fabrics.

With the expanded line offerings, will we see the Dockers for Women price point increase at all?

King: That’s the good news—no. Dockers for Women is becoming broader, providing women more options and versatility in their closet, but at the same time maintaining the advantageous price points that Dockers is known for.

Does this mean you are going to promote Dockers for Women as a complete ensemble brand?

Howard: Dockers for Women has been an ensemble brand for some time now. In fact, Dockers for Women offers complete collections of tops, pants, shoes, belts, outerwear, hosiery and eyewear.

What’s included in the Dockers for Women lineup for Spring 2002?

Howard: Key looks for Spring 2002 include bootcut-stretch and no-waist-stretch [styles]; fun colors like red, plum, java and charcoal; suede and textures; blended fabrics; sweaters; and patterns like tweeds.

What new items can we look forward to in the women’s Dockers collection for Spring 2002?

King: In Spring 2002, we will continue to evolve as a lifestyle brand. Our customers already know us for comfort, good value and fit, but by adding more fashion to our merchandise mix, we will reach more women with more style choices.