Brand Management
Warnaco’s Van Ness juggles designer swimwear and private-label lines
Kathy Van Ness could teach any swimwear designer a thing or two about brand development. As president of the Warnaco Swimwear Group in Los Angeles, Van Ness builds the New York apparel giant’s branded-swimwear business for labels including Cole of California, Anne Cole, Choice Calvin Klein and Nautica and develops swim lines for private-label mass-market retailers. This year alone, the $305 million swimwear company, known equally for its competitive-sports swimsuits and fashion-forward swim styles, launched new swim lines for Speedo and Anne Cole Studio.
“Differentiating brands by product categories is good for brand identity,” said Van Ness, who recently helped broker a licensing deal to produce swimwear for fashion designer Michael Kors. Van Ness joined the Warnaco Swimwear Group (formerly known as the Authentic Fitness Corp.) in 1996 as president of the designer division. Previously, Van Ness held various management positions at Burdines, a division of Federated Department Stores Inc.; served as vice president of merchandising at Leslie Fay Cos. Inc.; and worked for perennial swim company Jantzen.
California Apparel News Manufacturing Editor Claudia Figueroa recently caught up with Van Ness to discuss designer swimwear.
From a market standpoint, what percentage of Warnaco’s overall business is swimwear? And do you see the category growing in the short term?
Warnaco has three divisions: sportswear, intimate apparel and swimwear. The Warnaco swim group has been steadily growing. The 2003 net revenue for the swim group made up 26 percent of Warnaco corporate. Both shortand long-term projections are positive.
With new additions such as Choice Calvin Klein and Michael Kors, is it possible that your private-label business will surpass your branded business?
We are focused on managing and growing our brands: Anne Cole, Catalina, Cole of California, Nautica, Choice Calvin Klein and Michael Kors. Private label certainly is important, but our emphasis for growth will always be on our branded designer business.
The Warnaco Swimwear Group has found a nice balance between branded and privatelabel business. What are some of the challenges of maintaining that balance?
Each of our brands has their own identity and consumer demographic. Our management of each brand is very focused, even with our private-label accounts. Our goal is to understand how their business is related to the swim category and react to the trends. Our manufacturing capabilities are global. We understand the branded perspective, from the mass marketer to designer couture.
What is your philosophy regarding the swimwear business?
I have learned two things through my experience over the years: Know who your customer is, and know what your brand stands for—give it a niche. At the Warnaco swim group, we differentiate our brands with different product categories, such as status, fashion, junior contemporary, updated and modern.
What criteria are you looking for in designer brands that approach you for swimwear?
Highly recognized brands that offer uniqueness for the consumer and match our portfolio needs. We also look for brands that have a strong connection with the consumer.
From a design and marketing standpoint, how do you differentiate designer lines that are in a similar category?
The Anne Cole collection now consists of three separate lines—each designed for a specific consumer. Studio is higher-end, exclusive. [Anne Cole] Collection is our classic core line. [Anne Cole] Locker is separates and sporty. Distribution for each is targeted to a specific consumer demographic. Nautica Blue and Choice Calvin Klein both target juniors but have very different audiences. Nautica Blue targets the junior surfer-girl market—very free spirited—while Choice Calvin Klein targets junior contemporary. It’s flirty, girly, edgy.
Does the Warnaco Swimwear Group devote a separate team to each brand?
Every brand is its own company with its own designers, management and profit center. Their offices’ deacute;cor even depicts the lifestyles of their target consumer.
To what capacity do you work with designers on their brands’ development?
At the beginning of every year we get to reflect on the past year. We have great people working with us, merchants and designers all working with the brands. We work with each licensor and ask them how they feel about their product and what direction they want to try for the next year. It’s really a group of people who are collaborating on the product, who really understand the brand’s message.
Where are you taking your designer collections after the Miami Swim Show?
We are in the Lyon [Mode City] show with Nautica, Anne Cole and Choice Calvin Klein in September. That is the primary show in Europe.
