Pur the Couturier of Denim

Touted as a new approach to the world of denim, Pur Premium Denim is the brainchild of designer Hae Yong. An industry veteran with more than 20 years in the denim market, Yong has worked with Lucky Brand, James Perse, Bongo, Blue Cult, Pepe Jeans, Von Dutch Premium, Antik Denim, Genetic Denim and People’s Liberation Men’s collection, among others. With such impressive knowledge of the premium-denim market, one wonders why a designer might choose to launch a new label in such an oversaturated marketplace, where premium denim and retail in general are struggling to stay afloat.

“Over-saturation and poor product are partially responsible for the decline of the premium-denim market,” says the designer. “My product speaks for itself—it has to be worn to be truly appreciated. What nature didn’t give you, Pur can.”

With the recent launch of her line, the FIDM and Otis/Parsons alum is focused on translating her knowledge of the female form into not-so-basic jeans, skirts, trench coats and other denim fashion pieces. Dubbed a couturier of denim by her admirers, Yong’s vast experience, coupled with her tailoring and meticulous attention to detail, set her apart from other denim denizens. She produces her privately owned label in the denim capital of Los Angeles.

Yong currently designs about 30 styles per season. Top sellers from the debut (Spring ’08) collection are the “Bardot” and “Scarlette” jeans in a slim boot cut, as well as the “Denim Fleece” jeans and “Fergie Suspender Trouser.” Wholesale prices range from $90 to $125 for pants and go up to $220 for fashion pieces. Retail prices are $200 to $275 for pants and under $500 for fashion items. Top retailers include Jeany in Santa Monica, Calif.; Blues Jean Bar in San Francisco; and H Lorenzo in Los Angeles.

CAN: What are the biggest challenges that you face as an emerging brand in the premium-denim market?

HY: The state of our economy would be the greatest challenge. However, I have seen this “cycle” three times already. The nice thing about cycle is that what goes down also comes back, so I have faith. In this climate, the market will correct and weed out what isn’t good. If you maintain the purity of your line, quality and design, the consumers will support you.

CAN: What made you decide to launch your own line?

HY: It was time. The market was starting to look flat, and I couldn’t buy anything for over a year. I was always a loyal consumer of premium jeans, and it got really frustrating shopping and getting nothing. I now own more shoes and bags than I know what to do with—at least I have some killer shoes for my jeans!

CAN: How has your previous design experience influenced the line?

HY: Influence in design for Pur, I have to say, comes more from my needs and desire [than from] my past experience. The pieces I have made are what I wanted and couldn’t find—fit and quality being some of the biggest issues for me. Although, my experience has helped me design and execute some really intricate pieces that few people dare do, for it is really difficult and costly in time.

CAN: What are you working on for Spring ’09?

HY: I am expanding my color denims, along with more aggressive washes. I am also launching my knit line, with cashmere and super-lightweight cotton jersey, but with really fitted bodices.

CAN: Do you have any plans to introduce organic denim into the collection?

HY: Absolutely! I will probably start with the men’s line first.

For more information, visit www.purpremium.com.