California Apparel News

A few years ago, Paul Wignall’s career in male modeling was skyrocketing. Celebrated photographer Mario Testino shot his photos. Wignall regularly was asked to walk in runway shows for the likes of Tom Ford, Valentino and Versace. He starred in fashion shoots with Heidi Klum and actress Monica Bellucci.

But these days, he spends most of his time in a dark 600-square-foot garage in suburban Long Beach, Calif. Wignall’s leap from the bright lights of Paris and New York runways to the ranch-style homes of suburban Long Beach was voluntary.

The still–well-chiseled former supermodel chose to leave the fashion scene in 2005 so he could become more than another pretty face in the world of menswear.

The 31-year-old Wignall designs and co-owns boutique menswear label Matte Black with his brother, 35-year-old Matt Wignall. The company is headquartered in a garage the brothers rent from their real estate broker father, Alan Wignall. While he said he still does some occasional modeling, fashion modeling is focused on the very young, and that contributed in part to Paul Wignall’s decision to shift careers. But he also felt that he had something new to offer men’s fashion.

“There were a lot of feminine looks in menswear,” he said. “We wanted to make something that was more Steve McQueen.” The former model knows about feminine looks. Provocative designer Vivienne Westwood dressed him in a bra for one show.

The Wignalls have been working on the classic looks of Matte Black since 2005. But this year they believe the label will make a splash.

With a 2008 expansion goal of 100 accounts, they exhibited the line at the recent Project Global Trade Show in Las Vegas. Matte Black is currently sold at a handful of high-profile stores such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles, Fred Segal Santa Monica, Atmosphere in Los Angeles’ Los Feliz neighborhood and Harlow at The Camp specialty shopping center in Costa Mesa, Calif.

Despite his line’s classic inspiration and the sizzle of his brother’s star quality, Matt Wignall said that his company’s position can be tough. “We’re outsiders,” he said. “We’re working from a garage in Long Beach.”

Like any fashion venture, designing independent menswear is both an opportunity and a risk. Business can be tougher for contemporary men’s labels than for women’s brands because women spend more money on fashion, according to Jade Howe, creative director of Hause of Howe, a men’s fashion label based in Gardena, Calif.

“If you offer a full men’s collection, you get accolades and respect, but there are not as many avenues to sell to as with women’s fashions,” Howe said. His 6-year-old line is sold at retailers such as Saks and The Closet.

According to Port Washington, N.Y.–based market-research firm The NPD Group, men purchased more than 4 billion units of clothing in 2007, compared with women, who bought more than 8 billion units of clothing during the same year.

Matte Black offers some women’s T-shirts and sweaters in its Fall 2008 collection, but the focus is on menswear.

The Kids Are Alright fashion boutique owner Maritza Arrua sells Matte Black’s fashions at her two stores, based in Long Beach, Calif., and Los Angeles. She said that the line sold well—in particular, the women’s fashions sell out quickly. “I wish they would do more womenswear,” said Arrua, who described the collection as modern but not overly trendy.

Matte Black keeps the focus on menswear fashions because there is too much competition in the women’s market, according to Wignall. However, the men’s fashion scene is getting complicated, according to Alfredo Izaguirre, buyer for LASC, a premium-menswear boutique in West Hollywood, Calif.

The cleaner men’s styles of the past 18 months are giving way to a more-detailed look, Izaguirre said. “Retailers could not justify charging a high price point on something if it did not have a lot of details,” he said.

Matte Black fashions have a clean, straightforward look embellished with subtle details such as mini epaulets and long, slim breast pockets. Its 40-piece Fall 2008 line contains staples such T-shirts, one suit and a jean style.

Learning curve

Both brothers come from a fashion background. Matt Wignall is a photographer who shot look books for fashion labels such as Volcom and Initium Eyewear. He shot photographs of indie rock darlings Cold War Kids. The graphics on Matte Black’s 2008 T-shirts were designed in collaboration with Wignall and the band’s bassist, Matt Maust. Despite the Wignall brothers’ fashion experience, starting the business was tough. Neither went to design school, and they had to learn how to put together a garment. Paul Wignall conceded he spent much of the past few years learning how to deal with manufacturers and retailers. He still has to fight for factories to find time to manufacture his label. Matte Black is produced in China; Los Angeles; and Santa Ana, Calif. However, relationships from his previous career have helped. Tyson Ballou, a former roommate and top male model who has appeared in Dolce & Gabbana and 7 For All Mankind ads, is the star of the 2008 Matte Black look book. The brothers Wignall have received design advice from Neil Harrison, the former men’s designer for Volcom, and Garance Wilkens, who designed for Zac Posen and Dior. They got business advice from Shirley Cook, chief executiveof New York–based fashion label Proenza Schouler.

A few years after their launch, Matt Wignall said he now believes that good business and smart fashion statements can come from two guys working out of a Long Beach garage. “Between my brother’s fashion sense and my fashion photography, we have all the ingredients,” Matt said. “Why don’t we just go for it?”