California Apparel News

“Better than April”—that was the recurring refrain among exhibitors at the Oct. 5–7 run of the Los Angeles Majors Market, which features juniors and volume merchandise geared toward department stores and chain retailers.

Many department stores and chains have taken steps in the past year to protect themselves from the ravages of one of the roughest economies in decades. In some cases, these efforts have started to pay off. Comparable-store sales, or a measure of stores open more than one year, were better than expected for September.

Retail consultant Lynne Sperling said she thinks the good news will continue for some retailers. “You have pockets of American retail that are doing well,” she said, noting the good performance of companies such as Forever 21 and Gap Inc.’s Old Navy division. “But in general, the environment will be tough, and people will struggle because the economy is tough,” she said.

Indeed, many in the apparel industry are watching the crucial holiday sales season for an indication of how quickly consumer spending will pick up in 2010. The International Council of Shopping Centers is projecting a 1 percent increase in holiday sales, while the National Retail Federation is forecasting a 1 percent decrease.

The disparity was echoed at the Majors Market, where exhibitor reports ranged from the upbeat to the concerned. On the last day of the market, some showrooms fielded appointments with buyers from Macy’s, Forever 21, Dillard’s, The Buckle and Windsor Fashions, while others closed up shop before the lunch hour.

Still, many vendors working the Majors Market reported doing some better-than-expected business. Buyer attendance and the number of temporary exhibitors had increased for the market, according to Joanne Lee, senior vice president of the California Market Center. “It’s an indication that the market is picking back up,” she said. The CMC did not state specific attendance numbers.

Alison Budow, owner of the Alison Budow Sales showroom, forecast her business’ sales for 2009 would be 10 percent higher than 2008 because of the extra sales she wrote during the Majors Market. “Purse strings are opening up,” she said. “There are exciting trends starting.”

She saw retailers such as Wet Seal, Rue 21 and Tilly’s. Other retailers passing through the market were Nordstrom, Belk, Dillard’s, Von Maur and Bloomingdale’s. Budow said 25 percent of these retailers wrote orders for Immediates.

Every retailer was asking for Immediates at Sledge USA, said Gene Zuckerman, director of sales for the Los Angeles women’s tops brand. Also, every retailer was asking to “partner” with labels or looking for discounts. “[Consumers] want a Mercedes for a Chevy price. That’s what you have to offer them.” The emphasis on fast turnarounds was helping Sledge. Zuckerman forecast the label would double its 2008 sales.Looking for Spring trends

Lisa Resnick, an account executive with New Yorkshy;shy;–based Eminent Sportswear, a private-label manufacturer and maker of the Juniors brand of tops and outerwear, brought Spring 2010 goods to the market. She reported a stronger market than the one in April but said business was still off. For Spring, Resnick directed buyers toward laser-cut and studded T-shirts or tops with lace details.

Eva Ritzler, a sales executive with KBL Group, a private-label manufacturer and maker of the Smudge juniors brand, reported a busy market. “We saw more action than at the last show,” she said, adding that the appointment-driven market yielded more than 25 appointments for the New York–based company. Some buyers requested Immediate goods, she said, but, for the most part, retailers were looking at Spring. Getting the most attention were cropped and shrunken cardigans in pointelle, retro and printed fabrications.

Andrew Strasmore, president of the Los Angeles–based Fire juniors brand, reported a brisk Spring market. A few accounts placed orders for Spring, but he said he expected the bulk of orders to come in during November. Earning plenty of interest were knit racer-back tank tops in flowing silhouettes with contemporary details such as exposed zippers, slouchy pockets and asymmetrical hems. Strapless woven mini-dresses in pretty florals also earned buys. Fire, Strasmore said, also earned interest with its relaunched Fire Jeans line, which for Spring/Summer 2010 focused on non-denim fabrications. Short-shorts and capri-length cargo pants in poplin and twill gave buyers options outside the skinny and boyfriend jeans that populate the market. The brand also sowed seeds for the Fall 2010 season, letting buyers know that they will launch a sweater category for that season.

For coverage of the Directives West runway show, click here and for the Barbara Fields Buying Office’s trend presentation, click here.