Emerging Designer Show at DLAFW

Phong Hong's rosette mini dress, photo by Felix Salzman

Downtown LA Fashion Week kicked off at the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA with a fashion show honoring the talents of emerging designers. The Fashion Angel Award for Emerging Designers was created by The Department of Cultural Affairs of the City of Los Angeles and the organizers of Downtown LA Fashion Week. Three emerging brands with distinctly different view points were recipients of the inaugural award. Fernanda Carneiro, Phong Hong and the design team of Leslie Henry and Jacquetta O'Dell were selected to present their collections at the opening night event on Oct. 13. In addition to presenting their collection on the runway, each Fashion Angel winner received $1,500 in services from CPA firm Moss Adams.

Flirty feminine frocks were on the Spring agenda for Vietnamese-born Hong. The designer, who grew up in Southern California, infused his artistic talents into his Femme Noir collection. Whimsical silhouettes and romantic nuances characterized the collection, which celebrates the heroines of the silver screen. This heroine will perhaps be young, a bit risque but quite pretty wearing these shorter than short silhouettes, floaty chiffon fabrics and rosette details. The look was delicate in a palette of pale pink and nude tones but juxtaposed with black and gold hinted at an edgy undertone. Every rose does have a thorn - not surprising for the designer, who formerly worked as a graphic artist for clients such as Ed Hardy and Affliction.

Carneiro presented a clean modern collection of dresses and separates. The Brazilian-born designer grew up in the US., but channels her native culture into her collection. The free-spirited approach translated into colorful watercolor prints and pastel shades contrasted with natural shades of khaki and light brown. Strapless dresses, tops and skirts were freshened up with feminine details with modern lines such as ruffles and color blocking. The collection had a contemporary edge - a testament to Carneiro's experience working for labels such as BCBG Max Azria.

O'dell and Henry fused their love for alternative materials into their Krys-n-Jack collection. Made from unusual items such as leather, wood, and metal, the collection had an artsy craftsy meets "Mad Max" look. The design duo met in 2003 and have been collaborating ever since. It's easy to see Henry's background in interior design and upholstery translated into the collection that seemed more geared for the costume department than a retail store. A dress was fashioned from '70s style patchwork pieced leather and cinched in with metal bustier; a harness top was decorated with keys and paired with a wood skirt held together by door hinges; and metal pieces jutted from a shoulder harness almost like armour.

But while many of the pieces may not translate into saleable clothing, innovation is the key to design. Since O'dell oversees an online boutique at EM Co and the pair designs out of the upscale boutique on Third Street in Los Angeles, something tells me - in the words of Tim Gunn - they will "make it work."

Fernanda Carneiro

Krys-n-Jack by Jacquetta O'Dell and Leslie Henry