Going Back to Square One

The new men’s line Square One is reversing the dial on embellishment—graphics, superfluous pockets and trendy colors—and getting back to cut and fabric.

Square One started delivering its cut-and-sew knit tees to stores this Spring and will expand into a collection-based line with the addition of selvage denim sewn using vintage Union sewing machines, denim jackets and bomber-style leather jackets for Spring 2011.

“The concept was, ’Let’s go back to square one, when we used to design stuff that was a little more minimalistic,’” said sales rep Jordaacute;n Nodarse.

The line puts a masculine twist on T-shirt styles that are “more predominant in womenswear, things that you would see in Japan,” Noshy;darse said. For example, boat necklines, a longer and drapey fit for tanks in nearly transparently thin 80-single-knit Modal fabrics, three-quarter sleeve lengths, and elastic on the wrists of a long-sleeved tee.

The classic Henley, V-neck, crew-neck T-shirts and cardigans are made more sophisticated by combining knit and woven fabrics. On a crew-neck shirt, it looks as if the shirt were sliced diagonally in half, with one side in tonal Ciro silk and the other in Modal.

“Everything has to have a little panache. A little vintage vibe with a futuristic vibe,” said Nodarse, referring to items such as a classic cardigan traditionally seen in chunky-yarn knits, reinterpreted by Square One in a French terry with piqueacute;-stitch fabric and an oversize shape.

Retail price points range from $50 to $70 for tops and up to $500 for a leather jacket. The line has been sold to Los Angeles–area stores American Rag, Fred Segal and Church. In New York, it has been sold to Oak and French Corner.

For more information, call (310) 605-1946 or visit www.squareonecollection.com.—Rhea Cortado