Denim Brands Continue to Expand, Sometimes Outside of Denim

Established denim brands continue to search for newness and are finding ways to broaden their reach, whether through new fabrications or sister brands that capitalize on a brand’s expertise while pushing them into new price points or expanding their categories.

Veteran Los Angeles denim brand James Jeans recently launched the latter approach with The Icon Premium Brand, a new line of women’s jeans, sportswear and leather jackets. Debuting for Fall/Winter 2010, the collection includes vests knit from super-chunky yarn, elaborate moto-style jeans, draped mini-dresses with a Studio 54 vibe, a wool vest with fox-fur accents and a lambskin tuxedo jacket. In contrast, the core James Jeans collection sticks to premium jeans for men and women. Wholesale prices for The Icon Premium Brand range from $70 to $96 for denim, $40 for a tunic, $212 for leather pieces and $202 for the wool/fur vest.

Joie Rucker of Rich & Skinny is taking a two-pronged approach to building her denim empire. Easy Money, a new diffusion line of denim that launched earlier this year exclusively at Nordstrom, is now enjoying wider distribution at stores such as Neiman Marcus, Kitson and high-end specialty stores. The line is made in Mexico and features a $100 retail price point and super-stretch fabrics. “Easy Money doesn’t have the same luxe details that Rich & Skinny does, but it does have a great fit at a great price,” Rucker said. “The retail target is the same as that of Rich & Skinny, but Easy Money is about giving the customer a more flexible price point. If their budget doesn’t allow for a pair of Rich & Skinny jeans, they can still look great and pay a great price.”

Rucker also sees an opportunity to grow her business outside of denim. Non-denim pieces have always been peppered throughout her Rich & Skinny collections, but 2010 has seen a sharper focus on silk, twill and corduroy fabrications. Fall 2010, which is 50 percent non-denim pieces, includes cargo pants and shorts cut from silk charmeuse, stretch corduroy and micro-Modal twill. The pieces are reminiscent of denim in their silhouettes and treatments. Rucker washes the silk as she would denim and sews them with double needles, for example.

“They aren’t denim, but they have a denim soul,” Rucker said. “A silk cargo pant can be worn in the same way as jeans. They can go day to night; they are a basic. Like jeans, they are casual and utilitarian.” Rucker notes she’s not interested in doing sportswear. “I’m focusing on my strengths and experience,” she said.

Frankie B. Grows Up, Shrinks

Frankie B., the Los Angeles denim brand that built its reputation on super-low rock-chick rises, is shaking up its image with the addition of a petite collection, higher rises and an expanded waist size range of 23 to 32.

Founder Daniella Clarke hopes the changes will broaden her 11-year-old brand’s appeal to younger as well as older women. Novelty items such as jeggings and leggings are adding a dose of newness to the brand and represented approximately 50 percent of its Spring 2010 sales.