ENKNYC Draws New Players and Seasoned Veterans
NEW YORK—Among the more than 250 brands showing at the Jan. 16–18 run of ENKNYC was a mix of new companies and returning exhibitors, including menswear industry veterans returning to market with new collections.
“I’ve been doing this show since ENK was at the Omni,” said Jeff Hamilton, president of Los Angeles–based Karma Group LLC, recalling ENKNYC’s predecessor show, the Designers’ Collective.
Organized by ENK International, ENKNYC now features four shows in one: Designers’ Collective, which features traditional and contemporary menswear collections; Blue, ENK’s denim show; Tomorrow, which features new and up-and-coming designer collections; and Clean, which features accessories and grooming products. The show is held at The Tunnel in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood.
The show drew a roster of buyers from international and influential stores, including Ships, Fred Segal Trend, Ron Herman, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Sy Devore and Revolve.
Karma Group’s Hamilton was the first leather-jacket licensee for Guess? Inc., beginning in 1983, and in 1986 launched Jeff Hamilton Leather, the company he ran until 2002, when he sold the business. After a brief semi-retirement, Hamilton is back with Von Leuchtenberg jackets, a division of German luxury brand Moncler.
“I thought it was interesting because it has a history but at a more reasonable price,” he said. Designed in Germany and produced in Los Angeles, the collection’s wholesale prices range from $225 to $600.
The line is carried in the Connected showroom in Los Angeles. Hamilton said he opted to debut the collection at ENKNYC because it’s the first menswear show of the year, plus, he added, “There’s always a good quality of buyers here.”
International manufacturer Pansun’s also opted to launch a new collection at ENKNYC. FVF—which is named for the Bauhaus concept of Form vs. Function—is engineered from fabric to design to finish, according to Randall Baker, FVF brand manager.
The denim-friendly collection features specialty washes on tees, cashmere and denim. Jeans have pockets sized to fit a smart phone, and jackets have pockets that will fit an iPad.
The collection also features patent-pending processes and exclusive developments, such as a boiled wool that will adjust to the shape of the body with wear. “Only one mill makes it, and it’s exclusive to us,” Baker said—and a silk shearling jacket. Jeans feature laser-cut edges and welded seams. Baker describes the fit of the line as “a true fit.”
“It’s certainly not a traditional fit, but there are no cigarette legs,” he said.
The collection is produced in Italy, Morocco, Germany, the United States and China, and all pieces are priced to retail for under $1,000.
On the other end of the price spectrum, Perch Collective was at ENKNYC with a collection that features basics priced below $100 except for a few pieces.
“The most expensive item is the trench, which retails for $650,” said Wayne Joffe, creative director for the collection, which launched last season. Joffe’s trench coat features European fabric, chunky hardware, a button back pleat and a zip-off section that turns the trench coat into a jacket. “I like to design things you can get a lot of use out of,” Joffe said. “I hate it when you buy things that are so seasonal.”
This was the first time showing at ENKNYC for Los Angeles–based Kill City, which recently culled its jeans offerings down to 25 denim pieces in a range of three fits—Mod (15- to 16-inch leg openings), Wire (15- to 19-inch openings) and Junky (13-inch openings)—and a variety of washes.
“I brought the collection to Blue to try to take it more direct [to the premium/contemporary market],” said sales rep Diego Dominguez. “We leveled the prices a little, and we’re more focused.”
Nearby, the J Brand booth drew a steady stream of buyers on the opening day of the show. “It seems like we’re seeing new people—great stores,” said sales rep Julian Medina. “Buyers are really excited about reorderable basics that have been selling for everyone. And our non-denim—everyone is ordering.”
Vancouver, Wash.–based Agave was at the show following a record year, according to founder Jeff Shafer.
“Our best year was ’07, and we were down in ’08 and ’09, but we blew it open in 2010,” he said. “This is a good show for us. People are way more optimistic than last year. There’s definitely hope for the second half.”
Elyse Kroll, chairman of ENK International, organizer of several trade shows—including ENKNYC, Accessorie Circuit/Intermezzo, WSA and Coterie—was equally bullish on business in 2011. “We saw strong attendance and enthusiastic retailers at Accessorie Circuit/Intermezzo, which is a women’s show that took place the first weekend of 2011,” Kroll said. “At ENKNYC, brands were happy with the business written and very satisfied with the retailer mix on the show floor. At ENK, we are feeling that both men’s and women’s stores are expanding their open-to-buy and feeling more comfortable with it.”—Alison A. Nieder
