Talon International Joins CFDA Supply Chain Collective
Notions
Along with the announcement by the Council of Fashion Designers of America that it would launch a Supply Chain Collective, the New York–headquartered nonprofit trade organization and Los Angeles’ Talon International revealed their partnership within the new initiative.
Conscious Fashion Campaign Officially Launches
Manufacturing
Marking its official launch this month, the Conscious Fashion Campaign announced its commitment to the United Nations’ Decade of Action and Delivery for Sustainable Development.
The Year in Trade Shows
Trade Shows
During the 2019 trade-show circuit, some event producers scaled down while others expanded their programs or teamed up through collaborations that would entice attendees to get down to business. From coast to coast, apparel-industry trade-show producers planned changes or were forced to alter their programs due to unforeseen weather patterns or shifts in attendee demand.
Looking Back on 2019, As Apparel Industry Prepares for 2020
Finance
Over the course of 2019, financial uncertainty subsided a bit as consumers set new records on spending and economic forecasters revised initial predictions in favor of increased optimism through the end of the year. Despite a continuing conflict with China and potential tariff issues with other trade partners, the United States economy saw bright spots.
Mergers and Acquisitions Strengthen Businesses and Save Brands
Finance
During 2019, a consistent trend within the apparel industry took shape not just on the fashion front but also the business end of garment making.
An Air of Enchantment Makes Fall 2020 Magical for Monique Lhuillier
Falling for Fantasy
A magical fashion season is on the horizon for next year, according to Monique Lhuillier, who recently introduced her whimsical Fall 2020 collection of ethereal garments.
Lenzing Announces First Virgin Lyocell From Post-Consumer Cotton
Closing Lyocell’s Loop
After the September announcement of an upgraded Refibra technology that increased upcycled cotton-scrap pulp composition, Lenzing, Austria–headquartered Lenzing revealed another advancement with the product.
Allbirds Expands Into Slipper Category
Manufacturing
Following a number of holiday product launches spanning the weekend of Black Friday through Cyber Monday, Allbirds is now preparing to release its first slipper, keeping shoppers interested as the holiday gift-purchasing timeline decreases.
Ilse Metchek Remains an Industry Ally
Manufacturing
With a fashion career that has spanned decades, beginning in New York’s garment district and continuing in Los Angeles’ fashion district, Ilse Metchek’s role within the industry is legendary.
CMC Reinvents Its Space and Image
Real Estate
After its owner, Brookfield Properties, embarked upon a $170-million renovation at the end of 2018, the California Market Center in downtown Los Angeles was not only redesigning its interior but also its image.
Tariffs in 2019: As the Trade War Turns
Import/Export
One of the largest newsmakers of 2019 was neither a person nor a company but rather a largely impactful issue faced by the apparel industry. In a rocky 2018, the United States implemented 25 percent tariffs on $50 billion in imports from China, and the latter responded with its own reciprocal duties on products from the U.S.
Designer Mossimo Giannulli Charged in ‘Operation Varsity Blues’ Scandal
Legal
One of the most notorious criminal cases of 2019 was the “Operation Varsity Blues” college-admissions scandal in which a number of wealthy parents were accused of crimes ranging from bribery to money laundering in a scheme to guarantee their children’s admission into renowned universities.
Black Design Collective Recognizes Underrepresented Creatives With Year of Firsts
Fashion
Throughout 2019, the Black Design Collective maintained its commitment to highlighting the accomplishments of black fashion creatives by hosting a number of events and building a community within the fashion industry.
BCBGMaxAzria Founder Passes Away but Legacy Lives On
Manufacturing
In May 2019, the apparel segment lost an influential Los Angeles fashion veteran whose designs shaped trends within the industry for decades when Max Azria passed away at the age of 70, reportedly succumbing to lung cancer.
Ahead of Anniversary, California Apparel News Makes a Move
Events
Nearing the milestone of reaching its 75th year in publication, California Apparel News will begin its anniversary in a new space. At the end of November, the media firm relocated to The New Mart, located at 127 East Ninth Street in Los Angeles’ downtown fashion district.
Continental Business Credit, Fast A/R Funding Acquired by Republic Business Credit
Finance
As Republic Business Credit continues its California expansion, the financing-and-factoring firm announced its acquisition of factoring and asset-based lender Continental Business Credit as well as Fast A/R Funding.
OCC Approves CIT Subsidiary’s Acquisition of Omaha Bank
Finance
Following its approval by the Office of the Comptroller of the Currency, New York–headquartered financial-holding company CIT Group Inc. announced that it would complete the acquisition of Mutual of Omaha Bank, which is based in Omaha, Neb.
Delicate Handmade Treasures by Dakota Jinx Add Glamour to Sustainable Garments
Sustainable Treasures
An admiration for glamourous clothing has been a characteristic of Los Angeles native Dakota Jinx Falkenburg Solt Locke’s personality for as long as she can remember.
AAFA Echoes Industry Sentiment in Letter to CBP Regarding Proposed Footwear Duty
Import/Export
Escalating current tariff and trade drama, the United States Department of Homeland Security’s Customs and Border Protection proposed a revocation of two previous rulings on the definition of athletic footwear, widening the range of these types of shoes, which will thereby increase costs for these products that were previously not subject to athletic-footwear duties.
Skechers Releases Premium Heritage Limited Edition Collection
MANUFACTURING
After a successful September launch of the Premium Heritage One collection, the Skechers Premium Heritage line returns with a limited-edition Holiday collection, blending Skechers popular outsoles with more-luxurious materials.
Black Design Collective Hosts Pop-up Event at FIDM Museum
FASHION
Promoting the work of 10 Black Design Collective member designers, the organization hosted a pop-up showcase at the FIDM Museum, located at the downtown Los Angeles campus of the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, connecting the public with these accomplished Los Angeles-based fashion creatives.
Two Friends Create a Local Athletic-Apparel Legacy in L.A.
Manufacturing
Upon meeting in 2014, Jordan Cheesman and Micah Tootoo discovered they shared mutual interests regarding sports and fashion. During his career, Cheesman gained fashion experience in styling and retail sales, while Tootoo studied biomedical textiles at North Carolina State University. Though Cheesman hails from Seattle and Tootoo is originally from North Carolina, the men appreciate the work and legacy of the creative professionals who support the artistry and high-quality garment craftwork in Los Angeles.
With Festive Fashion, Amid Executive Change, True Religion Unveils Holiday Collection
True L.A. Holiday
Launching its Holiday 2019 collection—amid the chief executive appointment of Michael Buckley—Los Angeles’ True Religion kicked off the season with pieces that sparkle, shimmer and inspire cozying up California style during winter.
Labeltex’s New Sustainable Offerings Contribute to an Eco-Friendlier Supply Chain
Notions
Passionate about the work he does through the company where he is partner, Michel Imani has watched his business grow into an operation where the focus is more than simply creating labels. At Los Angeles’ Labeltex Mills, Inc., Imani has noticed a shift toward sustainability that is shaping the future of the nearly 26-year-old company.
Zenni x Cynthia Rowley Launches in Time for Holiday
ACCESSORIES
Online eyewear brand Zenni partnered for the first time with fashion designer Cynthia Rowley on a limited-edition capsule that launched in time for Holiday.
CALA Winds Down Its 2019 Show Schedule With San Francisco Edition
CALA S.F.
While the November San Francisco edition of the CALA trade show isn’t its final event of the year, it is the final installment in the city where it began, and event organizers are looking to finish 2019 strong as buyers and exhibitors become excited about opportunities that lie ahead in 2020.
Performance-and-Active Sourcing Arrive in Portland at Functional Fabric Fair
Trade Shows
Launching in Portland at the Oregon Convention Center Oct. 22–23, Functional Fabric Fair—powered by Performance Days unveiled its performance-specific trade-show model on the West Coast.
Heidi Merrick Opens Her Ojai Property for Fashion Week
FASHION
Bypassing the mainstream circuit during Los Angeles Fashion Week, California's own Heidi Merrick welcomed guests to her Ojai, Calif., home to unveil her Spring 2020 collection.
Art Hearts Fashion Sets the City Beat During Los Angeles Fashion Week
Heart of L.A.
The Los Angeles Fashion Week production of Art Hearts Fashion saw the unveiling of Nathalia Gaviria’s Spring 2020 collection for her NG Gold brand. Inspired by styles of the late 1990s and childhood playtime spent dressing her toys such as Barbie and Ken, the designer brought fun back into fashion.
House Shoes From Jill Burrows Lend Style to Staying at Home
Fashion
Feeling the need to remain fashionable at the most casual moments of her life, including spending downtime at home, Jill Burrows has long experienced a desire to own well-made slippers. Despite her thoughts that it would be easy to find a quality-made, stylish slipper that didn’t resemble an accouterment to sleepwear, Burrows couldn’t quite locate a proper fit for her vision.
In Los Angeles, Shima Seiki Seeks to ‘Knitify the World’
Technology
Within its new space, which opened in March, Japanese machine manufacturer Shima Seiki hosted its second G3D seminar in its fresh showroom. The first event in the Arts District space was held earlier this year, focused on a “Yarn to Shelf” manufacturing approach to apparel, while the recent session, hosted Oct. 23 and 24, adhered to the theme “Knitify the World.”
Returning to Los Angeles, Vegan Fashion Week Goes Ethical and Green
Eco-Ethical Fashion
The second edition of Emmanuelle Rienda’s Vegan Fashion Week took place in downtown Los Angeles under the theme “Fashion Is Activism,” which not only focused on cruelty-free fashion but also examined the apparel industry’s impact on the planet’s ecological systems. Held Oct. 10–15, Vegan Fashion Week coincided with Los Angeles’ mainstream fashion-week productions and L.A. Market Week, affording access to an expanded audience.
USTR to Consider Extension of Tariff Exclusions on $34 Billion of Chinese Imports
Import/Export
As the leaders of the United States and China continue to negotiate new trade terms and navigate through tariff increases implemented on imported goods, the office of the United States Trade Representative made an announcement on Oct. 28 regarding exclusions.
LA Fashion Week SS2020 Showcases International and L.A. Designers
LA Fashion Week
During LA Fashion Week at the Petersen Automotive Museum, Los Angeles brand the No. J showed Spring/Summer 2020 fashions. Designed by Jane Wu, the collection reflected a luxurious approach to street-inspired garments.
Environmental Concerns Create Necessity for Sustainable Practices in Apparel
Manufacturing
An early-morning meeting hosted at the City Club in downtown Los Angeles challenged apparel-industry leaders to cease the sustainability lip service and begin making genuine changes in garment manufacturing.
Butterfly Artifact Enters the Market With Fresh Distressed Designs
Manufacturing
Furniture designer Eileen Kennedy has enjoyed success through her Pulse Requisite custom-furniture business, Juice line of wood furniture and Rain fire-resistant trivets. Recently she hit the apparel-trade-show circuit to introduce Butterfly Artifact, a direct-to-consumer denim brand that offers a fresh approach to distressed styles.
COS DTLA Hosts L.A. Dance Project's Benjamin Millepied and Janie Taylor
RETAIL
During an intimate gathering at COS DTLA, L.A. Dance Project Artistic Director Benjamin Millepied and Principal Dancer Janie Taylor discussed how she created costumes for "L.A. Dances" using the clothing brand's garments.
Buyers Look to Spring, Along With Immediates, During L.A. Market Week
L.A. Market Week
At the final L.A. Market Week of 2019, buyers visited Los Angeles from different regions along the West and East Coasts—and areas in between. As the Holiday season approaches, exhibitors unveiled new styles for Spring 2020 and helped clients catch up through Immediates orders.
Expanding Offerings and Presence, Marcell Von Berlin Pays Homage to L.A.
Manufacturing
Designer Marcell Pustul is expanding his Marcell Von Berlin brand from couture into apparel that is usually worn undercover. Based in Berlin and Los Angeles, Marcell Von Berlin is providing a lot of love to its stateside base by introducing an underwear line that was inspired by the city and its residents.
Entrepreneur Madeline Fraser Provides D2C Fine Jewelry Through Gemist
Manufacturing
With Millennials clamoring for instant gratification through direct-to-consumer services that provide an array of products, Madeline Fraser wondered why no one had thought of a custom fine-jewelry platform. The entrepreneur, whose third company, the Los Angeles–based Gemist, offers a platform for consumers to design their own engagement, precious-stone and fashion rings, saw a need for this type of service when she and her fiancé decided to get married.
With Colorful Pieces, Wash Lab Creates Fun-to-Wear Denim
Manufacturing
Launched in 2018, Wash Lab is offering colorful denim from within the Los Angeles market. As a designer who has more than 26 years of experience, co-founder and Creative Director Lina Tsai is “funkifying” the basics.
California Governor Gavin Newsom Signs AB 44 to Ban Sale of New Fur Products
Retail
On Oct. 12, the office of California Governor Gavin Newsom announced he had signed into law Assembly Bill 44, making the state the first in the United States to ban the sale of new fur products. In addition to the sale of new fur, the legislation includes a ban on the display for sale, trade, manufacture and distribution of new fur products in the state.
Responsible Sourcing Is the Foundation for the California-made Brand Reck-less October 18, 2019
Reck-less Responsibility
Increasingly, new and emerging brands are searching for supply-chain options that are outside of the big-box model. For Reck-less founder Kertu Palo, this meant taking seemingly simple shirt-dress and jumpsuit designs but recreating them in different upcycled and dead-stock textiles in a variety of colorways for a sustainable approach to manufacturing in California.
California Governor Gavin Newsom Signs AB 44 to Ban Sale of New Fur Products
RETAIL
On Oct. 12, the office of California Governor Gavin Newsom announced he had signed into law AB 44, making the state the first in the United States to ban the sale of new fur products.
World’s First Zero-Emissions Top Handlers Introduced at the Port of Los Angeles
Technology
Increasing its commitment to combat the detrimental environmental effects of carbon emissions, the Port of Los Angeles unveiled its new Taylor ZLC976 zero-emissions top handlers, which rely on battery-powered electricity.
Retro French Pop Culture Inspires BCBGeneration FW19 Campaign
French Class
Returning to the French roots of founder Max Azria for its Fall/Winter 2019 collection, BCBGeneration incorporated pop-culture elements from the region with an air of youthful sophistication.
Fashiondex’s Sustainable Fashion Forum Addresses Solutions in Apparel Production
Trade Shows
This October’s LA Textile show, held Oct. 2–4 at the California Market Center, featured the third Los Angeles edition of the Sustainable Fashion Forum by Fashiondex.
Apparel Leaders Discuss Post-Glass Ceiling Business at City of Hope Fashion + Brunch
Events
During its “Fashion + Brunch: A Women’s Leadership Panel,” hosted Sept. 26 at The Line Hotel, located in Los Angeles’ Koreatown, the cancer-treatment-center City of Hope raised more than $50,000.
Brookfield Properties Appoints Moriah Robinson as Director of Events at CMC
Trade Shows
During last week’s LA Textile show and Sustainable Fashion Forum, Brookfield Properties announced its appointment of Moriah Robinson as director of events at the California Market Center.
More Than a Trend, the Search for Sustainable Materials Brings Buyers to LA Textile
L.A. Textile
After evolving from a fringe trend among the hippie set, sustainability has taken a front seat in sourcing within the apparel industry. Nowhere was this more apparent recently than at the October edition of the LA Textile trade show, which was held at the California Market Center Oct. 2–4.
