Thursday, October 31
Heart of L.A.
The Los Angeles Fashion Week production of Art Hearts Fashion saw the unveiling of Nathalia Gaviria’s Spring 2020 collection for her NG Gold brand. Inspired by styles of the late 1990s and childhood playtime spent dressing her toys such as Barbie and Ken, the designer brought fun back into fashion.
Feeling the need to remain fashionable at the most casual moments of her life, including spending downtime at home, Jill Burrows has long experienced a desire to own well-made slippers. Despite her thoughts that it would be easy to find a quality-made, stylish slipper that didn’t resemble an accouterment to sleepwear, Burrows couldn’t quite locate a proper fit for her vision.
Within its new space, which opened in March, Japanese machine manufacturer Shima Seiki hosted its second G3D seminar in its fresh showroom. The first event in the Arts District space was held earlier this year, focused on a “Yarn to Shelf” manufacturing approach to apparel, while the recent session, hosted Oct. 23 and 24, adhered to the theme “Knitify the World.”
The second edition of Emmanuelle Rienda’s Vegan Fashion Week took place in downtown Los Angeles under the theme “Fashion Is Activism,” which not only focused on cruelty-free fashion but also examined the apparel industry’s impact on the planet’s ecological systems. Held Oct. 10–15, Vegan Fashion Week coincided with Los Angeles’ mainstream fashion-week productions and L.A. Market Week, affording access to an expanded audience.
On Oct. 31, Authentic Brands Group was in grasping distance of acquiring influential yet troubled retailer Barneys New York Inc. In a hearing at the United States Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York, Judge Cecilia G. Morris approved ABG’s $271.4 million bid to take over Barneys, which filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in August.
As the leaders of the United States and China continue to negotiate new trade terms and navigate through tariff increases implemented on imported goods, the office of the United States Trade Representative made an announcement on Oct. 28 regarding exclusions.
The lifestyle brand We Are Simply Human mixes cut-and-sew T-shirts and a punk, agitprop-style of graphics. It made a debut into the wholesale business at the LA Men’s Market, which ran Oct. 15–16 at the California Market Center.
Remaking the Mall
A new retail center has opened in Long Beach, Calif., as another mall is scheduled to wrap up the first phase of a $20 million remodel in Santa Barbara, Calif.
If there’s a new way to spread a message about fashion or develop a new sales channel, Kelly Nishimoto has been in the vanguard.
After a few years of making made-to-measure suits, Sene announced earlier this month that it would make made-to-measure jeans.
Wednesday, October 30
Main Street in Huntington Beach, Calif., has been called the Rodeo Drive of surf.
Tuesday, October 29
Nike Inc. announced that it sold the Costa Mesa, Calif.-headquartered Hurley International to Bluestar Alliance LLC for an undisclosed sum.
Monday, October 28
It was the Saturday before Halloween. Los Angeles’ Fairfax Avenue was getting ready for the fright night holiday, and Dia de los Muertos.
Music star, Adidas collaborator and provocateur Kanye West produced a pop-up shop for album merchandise for his Jesus Is King album. It ran Oct. 25 – 27 at the edge of downtown Los Angeles arts district.
Friday, October 25
The future of Barneys NYC Inc. was upended Oct. 24 when the stalking-horse bidder, Authentic Brands Group, claimed that it had acquired the influential, but bankrupt retailer, and a competitor, Sam Ben-Avraham, objected and said that the bidding process was not over.
Thursday, October 24
LA Fashion Week
During LA Fashion Week at the Petersen Automotive Museum, Los Angeles brand the No. J showed Spring/Summer 2020 fashions. Designed by Jane Wu, the collection reflected a luxurious approach to street-inspired garments.
An early-morning meeting hosted at the City Club in downtown Los Angeles challenged apparel-industry leaders to cease the sustainability lip service and begin making genuine changes in garment manufacturing.
Furniture designer Eileen Kennedy has enjoyed success through her Pulse Requisite custom-furniture business, Juice line of wood furniture and Rain fire-resistant trivets. Recently she hit the apparel-trade-show circuit to introduce Butterfly Artifact, a direct-to-consumer denim brand that offers a fresh approach to distressed styles.
FMNC’s Fashion Finds
At the final Fashion Market Northern California trade show for 2019, retailers looked for Immediates, Spring 2020 fashions and, for Claire Samaras of the Angelique Boutique in Sonoma, Calif., styles with an edge for a certain demographic.
Lawren Cappelletti was happily living at Vandenberg Air Force Base, near Lompoc, Calif., with her husband, Michael Cappelletti, who serves in the Air Force, but in 2016 she thought that she’d make a few changes. She would return to school, pursue an arts degree and start a fashion line. It was no pipe dream.
Some of the buzzwords to describe the new styles for Spring/Summer 2020 are utility and haute hippie, but Directives West, the West Coast merchandising and consulting division of The Doneger Group, also wanted to try something new for the trend forecast it presents at every LA Majors Market.
The Garment Worker Center, a downtown Los Angeles organization that represents garment workers, is planning a protest Oct. 31 outside of Ross Stores Inc.’s Ross Buying Office at the California Market Center.
There have been a lot of headlines proclaiming the prominence of activewear in American wardrobes, but, according to a recent report from The NPD Group, the action is in casualwear.
On Oct. 23, it was announced that Mandy Fry, co-founder of the Amuse Society brand, was named president of Z Supply, LLC, an Irvine, Calif.–headquartered manufacturer of contemporary women’s styles. Z Supply brands include its namesake Z Supply as well as Rag Poets, White Crow and Others Follow.
Maui and Sons at 40
Maui and Sons’ Sharkman character and pastel-flecked cookie logo seemed to be on the back of every surfer and beach-culture enthusiast in the 1980s and early 1990s. Decades later, Maui and Sons is observing a rare milestone for a youth-oriented clothing brand as it prepares to observe its 40th anniversary in 2020.
October brings in the World Series, Halloween, and in South Coast Plaza, a new Valentino store.
British born, Mexico City-based Designer Erin Lewis will run workshops on protest fashion along with producing a pop-up shop at Lisa Derrick Fine Arts in Los Angeles' Chinatown section.
Wednesday, October 23
French Luxe Brand Kenzo opened its first Los Angeles boutique recently.
Tuesday, October 22
With superstar sneaker and streetwear shop Kith as a neighbor, Fred Segal is revving up streetwear styles at its flagship on 8500 Sunset Blvd. in West Hollywood, Calif.
Monday, October 21
Little Tokyo's Popkiller boutique has not only served as the anchor for the neighborhood's cute culture scene. The shop has been around for a long time.
Friday, October 18
During an intimate gathering at COS DTLA, L.A. Dance Project Artistic Director Benjamin Millepied and Principal Dancer Janie Taylor discussed how she created costumes for "L.A. Dances" using the clothing brand's garments.
Thursday, October 17
LA Fashion Week started Oct. 9 with a showcase of Thai designers. On following nights it put a spotlight on some European designers during the fashion week that rolled out at the Petersen Automative Museum in Los Angeles.
L.A. Market Week
At the final L.A. Market Week of 2019, buyers visited Los Angeles from different regions along the West and East Coasts—and areas in between. As the Holiday season approaches, exhibitors unveiled new styles for Spring 2020 and helped clients catch up through Immediates orders.
Designer Marcell Pustul is expanding his Marcell Von Berlin brand from couture into apparel that is usually worn undercover. Based in Berlin and Los Angeles, Marcell Von Berlin is providing a lot of love to its stateside base by introducing an underwear line that was inspired by the city and its residents.
With Millennials clamoring for instant gratification through direct-to-consumer services that provide an array of products, Madeline Fraser wondered why no one had thought of a custom fine-jewelry platform. The entrepreneur, whose third company, the Los Angeles–based Gemist, offers a platform for consumers to design their own engagement, precious-stone and fashion rings, saw a need for this type of service when she and her fiancé decided to get married.
Launched in 2018, Wash Lab is offering colorful denim from within the Los Angeles market. As a designer who has more than 26 years of experience, co-founder and Creative Director Lina Tsai is “funkifying” the basics.
On Oct. 12, the office of California Governor Gavin Newsom announced he had signed into law Assembly Bill 44, making the state the first in the United States to ban the sale of new fur products. In addition to the sale of new fur, the legislation includes a ban on the display for sale, trade, manufacture and distribution of new fur products in the state.
Increasingly, new and emerging brands are searching for supply-chain options that are outside of the big-box model. For Reck-less founder Kertu Palo, this meant taking seemingly simple shirt-dress and jumpsuit designs but recreating them in different upcycled and dead-stock textiles in a variety of colorways for a sustainable approach to manufacturing in California.
Retail sales dipped 0.3 percent in September compared to the previous month, according to a statement from the U.S. Commerce Department that was released on Oct. 16. September sales marked the first time that U.S. retail sales have declined since February, when retail sales dipped 0.2 percent.
LA Men’s Market
Streetwear styles have forged their own sartorial paths for years, and retailers shopping the streetwear- and fashion-focused LA Men’s Market looked for new and classic styles at the Oct. 15–16 edition at the California Market Center in downtown Los Angeles.
Los Angeles–headquartered contemporary men’s brand Mercy & Loyal started business in 2018 supplying casual yet sophisticated looks for men, but founder Patrick McCook found that the high-end casual looks were too formal for most men. So, the line’s high-end casual looks such as cashmere polo shirts are being phased out and sweatshirts and flannel shirts will take a more prominent role in the line, McCook said.
Wednesday, October 16
In a world peppered by news of store closings, the Elyse Walker boutiques celebrated an important milestone.
Monday, October 14
“It was important for me to have all sizes and diversity on all levels. No matter who you are, you deserve to look beautiful on your special day,” said Rachel Carlson, designer of Rachelle Appelle.
Sir Joe Exclusive designed unisex loungewear. “It’s from street to sleep,” Sir Joe Exclusive said. “It’s for the well-traveled person.
The Hundreds streetwear brand produced the first fashion show in its 16-year history on Oct. 13.
Sunday, October 13
On Oct. 12, the office of California Governor Gavin Newsom announced he had signed into law AB 44, making the state the first in the United States to ban the sale of new fur products.
Friday, October 11
In past seasons, LA Fashion Week has devoted nights to Thai designers. The Spring/Summer 2020 Fashion week is no different.
Thursday, October 10
Increasing its commitment to combat the detrimental environmental effects of carbon emissions, the Port of Los Angeles unveiled its new Taylor ZLC976 zero-emissions top handlers, which rely on battery-powered electricity.
Returning to the French roots of founder Max Azria for its Fall/Winter 2019 collection, BCBGeneration incorporated pop-culture elements from the region with an air of youthful sophistication.
This October’s LA Textile show, held Oct. 2–4 at the California Market Center, featured the third Los Angeles edition of the Sustainable Fashion Forum by Fashiondex.
During its “Fashion + Brunch: A Women’s Leadership Panel,” hosted Sept. 26 at The Line Hotel, located in Los Angeles’ Koreatown, the cancer-treatment-center City of Hope raised more than $50,000.
During last week’s LA Textile show and Sustainable Fashion Forum, Brookfield Properties announced its appointment of Moriah Robinson as director of events at the California Market Center.
After evolving from a fringe trend among the hippie set, sustainability has taken a front seat in sourcing within the apparel industry. Nowhere was this more apparent recently than at the October edition of the LA Textile trade show, which was held at the California Market Center Oct. 2–4.
Los Angeles’ Melrose Avenue has been a hub for alternative-lifestyle clothing for decades. Approximately 40 years ago, Melrose east of Fairfax Avenue was the go-to place for punk-rock clothing and curated vintage rock ’n’ roll looks that gave Los Angeles a unique style. Decades later, it’s the address for designers who create looks appropriate for adventurous attendees traveling to the Burning Man festival, as well as streetwear styles and other idiosyncratic style tribes.
Daniel Henson wanted to make leisure clothes that were not only simple and elegant but could hold up through any exercise regimen and any kind of weather. He and business partner Darren Chandlee put together what they believed was the best example of simple, elegant and sturdy clothes for hanging out.
After decades of producing talent-acquisition events and annual galas in New York City, the Fashion Scholarship Fund produced its first events in Los Angeles.
Ron Robinson Era Ends
Pioneering boutique retailer Ron Robinson will be closing his bricks-and-mortar stores by early 2020. His digital shops, www.ronrobinson.com and www.apothia.com, will continue to do business. In a recent email to his vendors, he said that he is not retiring, the shops were thriving financially and relations with landlords were good.
Sustainable lifestyle platform Ziggie.com will produce a pop-up shop for its Los Angeles-headquartered sustainable brands KINdom, Arzé, and Clarke & Barba Feller, another sustainable brand that is designed in Seattle.
The travel-inspired Roark surf brand is planning to spread the word on its styles with new bricks-and-mortar shops.
Tuesday, October 8
Legions of kids have doodled and made sketches on their Vans during their school days and teen years. This year, apparel and footwear brand Vans plans to make this pastime an activity that could be lucrative.
Monday, October 7
The J Brand marked the grand opening of a J Brand outlet store Oct. 5 at Camarillo Premium Outlets in Camarillo, Calif.
Friday, October 4
New York –headquartered 260 Sample Sale is on the move.
Thursday, October 3
Skechers USA is one of the largest sneaker brands in America, and recently the Manhattan Beach, Calif.–headquartered company announced a serious commitment to reducing footwear packaging, according to Michael Greenberg, president of Skechers.
High-end fabric agency Renovazio produced its second Los Angeles trade event, the Renovazio Show, Oct. 2–3, in downtown Los Angeles.
A number of high-end retailers, restaurants and prominent companies have moved into downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District in the past few years, and one major tenant is opening in the area this week. Luxe club Soho Warehouse opened for a select group of its members on Sept. 30.
Working in fashion, both as a designer and an educator at a college such as the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, I have to stay on top of what’s new, what’s next and keep abreast of trends or what could be a future trend.
Gustavo Garibay had enough of brash colors and big logos in activewear. He wanted to use the words “refined” and “tailored” to describe it. When he didn’t see this option in men’s activewear on the market, Garibay, a former director of denim product development at Guess?, Inc., resolved to design it himself.
Following much outside speculation over the last few months, Los Angeles–headquartered Forever 21 filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection last weekend. On Sept. 29, documents were filed in the United States Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware.
Retailers searched for juniors and young contemporary styles that featured tie-dye looks and utility-workwear silhouettes during the L.A. Majors Market, which ran Oct. 2–4 in Los Angeles’ Fashion District.
John Wilson, a co-founder of the prominent brand Stance, was recently named chief executive officer for the brand that made socks into a fashionable item at surf and skate shops. Wilson replaced brand co-founder Jeff Kearl, who continues to serve Stance as its chairman.
Despite some economic uncertainty, the trade group National Retail Federation is forecasting a strong 2019 holiday season.
Cross Colours at 30
Starting 30 years ago with an apparel-manufacturing idea that would reflect the culture of an often-underrepresented community, TJ Walker and Carl Jones launched Cross Colours, the Los Angeles–based brand that relied on colorful fabrics and designs inspired by young people. While the duo sought to build a brand with which young black youth could identify, they succeeded in creating a legacy that reached far beyond boundaries.
Garments for Good
For Bowie & Co. founder Taylor McKinnon, manufacturing domestic, high-end clothes to work toward social change is a personal mission. As someone who experienced great loss, including the passing of his beloved grandmother Brenda, which led to his homelessness, McKinnon experienced firsthand the challenges of recovering from living on the street.
Wednesday, October 2
The Los Angeles-based AIMS360 produced Elevate, an event detailing the finer points of its Intelligent Allocation program and other features of its platform.
Tuesday, October 1
For Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Skinnytees wanted to focus on a single person dealing with the illness.
Stephon Stewart created a series of paintings of what the Earth would look like in a climate catastrophe—and rallying from the brink of disaster.